Fun in the Sun and the beaches of Negros Oriental

Philippines has 7,100 islands. Growing up an islander instilled in me a proud and competitive spirit. Our beach is always going to be nicer than the neighboring island, our dialect sounds better, and our food taste more delicious too. Judging from this you can see how easy to must have been for the Spaniards to divide, conquer and colonize us for 400 years.I grew up in Cebu City and it was the second capital of the Philippines next to Manila. I’m a proud Cebuana and I couldn’t imagine living anywhere else in the Philippines except in Cebu, but an unexpected twist of fate brought us to the neighboring islands of Negros; I’d always heard it was beautiful, but I’d never been there. We moved out of Cebu like begrudging refugees, but we kept an open mind, and it didn’t disappoint.When we found ourselves relocated in Dumaguete City, immediately I started exploring the urban life, the mountains, hot springs, and waterfalls… but the sea was calling!

I set out to explore the rich marine life around Negros Island, and it is a bountiful offering. In Cebu, we are proud of our sprawling white sand beaches, but here in Negros many of the beaches have dark volcanic sands. These were created when volcanic Basalt lava fragments were pummeled by the tides turning them into black sand. Mt. Kanlaon, the highest volcano in the Philippines is still actively spitting and sputtering out lava in a kind of geothermal acid reflux. I’d heard bad things come in threes; there was the pandemic, then we fled from super typhoon Odette, only to land on an island with an active volcano. Just 2 months ago there were 41 small volcanic earthquakes caused by movements and eruptions of magma beneath Mt. Kanlaon. Curiously, I’m not afraid. It’s 170 kms away from us, even though it remains at a Level 1 (abnormal) alert. Perhaps we should be more concerned about volcanic eruptions?

Mt. Kanlaon in Negros.
Image source: Composite Volcano (scientiafantastica.wixsite.com)

Top on our list of water adventure was the Dance of the Dolphins in the Tañon strait and the Manjuyod sandbar in the town of Bais just an hour’s drive North of us in Dumaguete City. My niece, Jenica was visiting and although she’d seen the dolphins at least 4 times, she was eager to visit her old friends.Prior to going there, we though it was a good idea to swing by Boochee Beach to visit our friends who were DJ’ing at a ‘Full Moon Party’. We drank cocktails and basked in the moonlight reflected in the seas with a background of electronic beats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUncYSSlBU8

Full Moon Party at Boochee Beach,
San Jose, Negros.

Not wanting to drink and drive, we stayed the night at the neighboring Wuthering Heights Resort. It’s become a favorite of ours. They have Vegetarian options, the service is very friendly, and the rooms are enormous and super clean. We enjoyed the scenic setting of Wuthering Heights resort as it radiates romance and nostalgia. This is why it’s become a popular wedding destination for couples from here and abroad to declare their vows. It is such a wonderful place that I’m hopeful that every union of marital bliss there will transcend the tragedies depicted in Emile Brontë’s gothic tale!

Wuthering Heights is near Boochee Beach, in San Jose, half-way between Bais City and Dumaguete. Staying the night allowed us to catch up with friends and it cut our morning drive time to get to the boats to just 30 minutes. In the morning, I woke up to my coffee overlooking the beach and a glorious blue sunrise. I breathed a grateful prayer despite my slight hangover from the previous night’s cocktails, and I was ready.

Blue, blue my world is Blue.
Catching the sunrise at Wuthering Heights
Bed and Breakfast by the sea.

On the way to Bais, we passed by a scenic view of vast agricultural lands, humongous trees, and stately mansion reminiscent of a prosperous period when Negros was exporting sugar to Spain. Until today, they are one of the largest producers of raw sugar in the country. The sugar industry reached its peak in the 1930s bringing wealth to the people of Negros (aka Negrenses) enabling them to acquire fortunes, influence, and build some of the most sprawling manors in the province.

Image Source: Bais, Negros Oriental – Wikipedia

The swampy Port of Bais, where the pump boats were parked, was busy even in the early morning hours.On the bright musky morning, cars arrived at the bustling port, boats revved their motors as the tourists coordinated with their guides looking for the ideal parking spaces.We were met by our guide who rented us their boat for Php 3500 (USD $62)/day. There were two fishermen operating the boat who were our captain and crew for the day. There was no guarantee the dolphins would show up, but we were assured that they usually do when the waters were calm. It was a still day off the coast of Negros Oriental. We motored more than an hour to where the dolphins usually play. I didn’t want to get up so early on such a beautiful Saturday morning for nothing, so I found myself praying for dolphins to emerge. Along the way to get to where the dolphins play, we passed the Manjuyod sandbar also known as the ‘Maladives of the Philippines’.The sandbar is 7km wide with white sand in crystalline turquoise waters. We arrived during high tide so we didn’t stop to enjoy the sandbar because it was still not visible, but there were houses on stilts with boats gathered round them. We couldn’t wait for the tides… we were off to see the dolphins!

All we could see were native cottages on stilts. I wonder how they survived during the recent typhoon Odette?

What if the dolphins don’t show up? That’d be disappointing! I thought.

As if reading my mind, the first mate said, “If they’re not here, we must go further. They usually show up in the Tañon straits. It’s good you came early. In the afternoon, the sea gets choppy and they hide.”As if on cue, the dolphins began jumping and plunged in and out of the water as our guides were loudly clapping.

“Why do you do that?” But by the time my words were out, everyone was already pointing and hooting and gleefully jumping around in the boat.
“Clap. They are happy that way.” The fishermen said. “Like us humans, they love applause and have to be appreciated.”

They kept on, whistled to lure them out and make a show for us. Darwin, snorkel and mask in hand, was ready to go into the water with them but he was denied!
“No, don’t!” The guides said.“Why?”“Swimming is not allowed.”
“Why?”
“The current is so strong. The water is so deep. It’s not safe.”
“Got it!”

https://youtu.be/4vSRzizP5iI

Dancing Dolphins in Bais, Negros

We stayed for hours watching those happy pranksters cavort among the boats. We were hungry and stopped for lunch. We’d planned to have a picnic and eat our lunch on the sandbar, but since the tides were still too high, no sandbar could be seen. We relaxed in our boat, had a little swim, and among the other tourists we had an impromptu beach party with the rest of the cast. There was loud disco music, floating bars, and a floating Sari Sari (convenience store). There were even inflatable speed boats shaped like dragons powering kids around the shallows. It was such a fiesta. Who knew?

Next on our list was the Marine Sanctuary of Apo Island, we can regularly see Apo Island from our home on Negros and we’d been very curious about it.

Apo island is a volcanic island, covering a total of 74 hectares of land area. The name, ‘Apo’ means a ‘respected elder’ in our Visayan tongue.As a marine reserve, Apo Island is protected by the National Integrated Protected Area Act (NIPA) and under the jurisdiction of the Protected Area Management Board (PAMB). It’s a popular destination among divers, snorkelers, and tourists alike.

There are two hotels in the area, Apo Island and Liberty’s Lodge. There’s also a small village, a ranger station, and a lighthouse. Should you stay overnight? It’s not really recommended if you don’t like to rough it. Apo Island has only 4 hours of electricity per day. On Apo, you’ve kind of got to time your ice or cold beverages by the run time of the generator. Don’t expect air-conditioning, and I was already being feasted on by mosquitos by noontime, so bring the repellant!

Warm cocktails? Nope, I’d rather go home. But it was a beautiful day trip, but not for glamping, luxury, or the faint of heart. “The best day to go there is on Wednesday,” a local advised us.
“Why?”
“Every Wednesday is our market day!”
“What makes it special?”
“They sell almost everything from fruits, vegetables, crops, rice, fish, crab, chicken, shoes, handbags, accessories, knives, tires, ropes, live stocks, carabaos, lechon, used clothing, local art, etc. And people from all over the province come over to sell whatever.”
“You mean anything is sold here?”
“Yes, everything!”

This marketplace started as a barter point when people traded their goods and livestock with one another. Now it’s a tourist destination, and a jumping off point to Apo Island. Fishermen bring their wares and people from Apo buy their groceries and sundries in this colorful marketplace. The vendors were very reasonable and not pushy. The marketplace was available for locals as well as tourist alike.

Local arts and craft as well as souvenirs.

Fresh produce. Darwin scanning the market.

Tifani checking out a variety of seafood.

“Anything you seek, you have it here.” they said.“Do you have edibles worms, cockroaches, and Monkey’s brain?” I asked jokingly.
They were unavailable.We were told that on Wednesday, the locals only pay 100 pesos to ride to and from Apo Island, but it cost us to rent an entire boat costing Php 3500 pesos and more. And when we got there, we were still charged an environmental fee of Php 100 pesos each. Everything is slanted in favor of those choosing to live on this secluded little island, but perhaps that’s how it ought to be.If you’re driving, there is also a spacious parking with attendants watching over. Although public transportation like buses and trikes are also available to get there.

On the way, the boat ride to Apo Island the seas were calm, as we were told was the norm.
Apo Island ahead.

Apo Island is a great place to snorkel. Manu showed us some spots that were rich with coral. Darwin and Jenica decided to hire a guide as the sea was getting really rougher, they felt safer to venture in the deep waters with someone watching over, familiar with the waters. There was a wide variety of coral with a rainbow display of colors, and there was ample marine life such as, Trigger Fish, Wassers, and Sea Turtles.As for me, I decided to stay closer to shore, because the waves were so strong, and I was being thrown into the rock where it was just hip deep. I decided to just relax and chill with a lukewarm cocktail and my Kindle. Manu, who visits Apo Island regularly told us he’d never seen the ocean so wild!

The sea was so choppy on the way back our boat had to come to the other side of the island to pick us up. It’d become too tempestuous to get us where they’d initially left us. Fortunately, it’s just a 5-minute walk by the shady lagoon to the other side of the island and you get a feel for the little island and how the local lives. It really is a quaint green village. My athletic niece, Jenica hiked up to the top of the hill, really a small mountain in the center of the island, and she took lovely pictures and shared them with me.

Aerial view of Apo Island.

On the way back, it was a rough 2-hour rough ride, because there were plenty of white-caps, the boat was rockin’ and rollin’. The waves were angry, and I became a little afraid and held on to my life vest. Everyone else was screaming and enjoyed the rollercoaster ride with gusto. The waters splashed on us as we dipped in and out of the ocean swells. We were soaked, but we made it home safely. A gentle rain drizzled as we sauntered onto the shore.

Dauin is a popular beach community in Negros not far South of Dumaguete City. Scuba diving is a principle industry in Dauin. There are several marine reserves and dive sites situated along the coast. Apo Island is included in the territory of Dauin. As an alternative to directly diving at Apo Island by way of Port Malapatay, it’s often easier to dive in Apo by way of one of the many dive centers who have their own boats with regular scheduled diving adventures at sundry locations on Apo Island.

Dauin has a whole array of resorts from the very fancy to the more economically priced dormitories and hostels. There are lots of places to hear live music or karaoke in Dauin. There’s also a public beach enjoyed by locals who picnic and bring their own food. There are even food vendors on the beach. “Have you been to ‘Silver Reef’?”

Gina, a local acquaintance and I were talking about resturaunts.“Nope. Is it good?’
“After the typhoon Odette, we had no electricity for an entire week. I was here every day to work on my computer. They had a generator and allowed us to work here. And they have coffee and a bakery!”

That was our intro to Silver Reef Resort, and now it’s a favorite resort that we frequented. The property is owned by the popular Silver Swan Soy Sauce company which is a condiment that almost every Filipino household uses and can’t do without. The resort has an industrialized modern look constructed of used shipping containers. These were surprisingly modern converted into super cozy living quarters. Eighty percent of this resort is made from upcycled materials. Even some of the items in the gift store were upcycled. They also have a nice cafeteria boutique that sells special European deli and pastries; Acoustic music on the weekend, a good selection of food in their restaurants, including vegetarian and vegan offerings. Since we became vegetarians almost three years ago, it’s been challenging to find good vegetarian restaurants.

Luckily, we discovered a cozy little nook made with native bamboo materials called, Anahaw. It is now our favorite vegetarian discovery. Not only do they serve a sumptuously healthy meal, but they also cater to your wholistic needs by offering Yoga, Pilates, and Tai Chi courses on the 2nd floor. What more can you ask for?

There are many restaurants in Dauin. We are also quite fond of Fin Bar. They have a very funky vibe, they serve locally made craft beer (Darwin misses microbrew IPAs from California), and they have a wide variety of yummy food choices including vegetarian selections, such as vegan burgers and curries. It’s a local gathering place. They host trivia nights and acoustic evenings, so you can enjoy your food, beer and listen to music from 70’s to current.

Acoustic Live Jam at Fin Bar, Dauin

Hanging out at Fin Bar, Dauin with family and friends.

So, what can I say? Now that the world is open, live, laugh and love.

Photo credits:

I have taken most of the photos myself, some have been shared with me by my husband Darwin, and my daughter Tifani, with the exception of the maps.

Mt. Kanlaon in Negros – Composite Volcano (scientiafantastica.wixsite.com)
Map of Bais – Bais, Negros Oriental – Wikipedia
Manjuyod Sandbar: The “Maldives Of The Philippines” Where You Can Bask On A Crystalline White Beach – TheSmartLocal Philippines – Travel, Lifestyle, Culture & Language GuideAerial view of Apo Island, Dauin – Jenica Suson. Thanks, ‘Kay!

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